by Anoka Latchmiah
Vogue magazine, first issued in 1892, celebrated its 130th anniversary on 12 September. This
celebration has brought to light much of Vogue’s history, and whether, if at all, it is still relevant to society.
Social media has added to the quickening pace at which we develop trends and spit them out a few days later. Magazines have become subject to public scrutiny as they are often viewed as archaic and incompatible with how we consume media as of late. Vogue is subjected to this public scrutiny despite it’s incredible influence on pop culture. Relevancy is a currency and Vogue just isn’t on the cutting edge anymore.
The word “vogue” has become synonymous with art and fashion in its purest form. In fact it’s still considered a fashion hegemon. The magazine is sold worldwide and published in 19 different languages.
In the beginning….
Arthur Baldwin Turnure founded Vogue in 1892. Vogue was marketed as a lifestyle magazine intended for society's elite. Whilst not explicitly advertised as such, the magazine was extremely expensive - as is evident in many movie references like the ultimate ‘fashion is life’ quote from Sex and the City’s resident fashion writer, Carrie Bradshaw who said “When I first moved to New York, I bought Vogue instead of dinner, I just felt it fed me more.” This meant that those who could get a copy had connections and resources that most of society simply did not. The magazine may still appeal to a wealthier target audience; but it’s far more accessible today than it was 100 years ago. This is mainly in part due to digitalization.
In 1988, Anna Wintour became editor in chief for American Vogue, a title she holds to date. She was pressured into revamping the magazine as rival magazine Elle had just launched. She began to feature celebrities who were not solely models on the magazine’s cover. These included actresses, singers and even politicians (such as Hilary Clinton). This solidified Vogue’s reputation as a tastemaker magazine because it sparked international interest in the magazine and in celebrity culture. Wintour then extended the target audience by launching Teen Vogue in 2003, and Men’s Vogue in 2005.
Many believe that physical mediums as a collective are irrelevant to society, but here I have to disagree. It was predicted that the book industry would collapse at the hands of the Kindle; however, it has remained a consistent source of entertainment for readers worldwide. So whilst Vogue is slow-moving in comparison to the frenetic speed of social media, many still prefer reading something tangible, although the magazine offers digital and physical subscriptions too. Vogue has exhibited a readership of nearly 24,4 million readers globally and 42 million monthly users online, which means that Vogue isn’t desperate for readers.
However, modern day relevancy isn’t all about readership. It’s whether readers are influenced by what they’ve read in these publications. The presence of social media has influenced how we view fashion. Before digitalization, designers and fashion brands depended on the magazine industry to help them connect to their clients and endorse their collections. This relationship has changed dramatically in recent years.
The consumer has the power in this new hierarchy, whereby they can amplify or destroy a business, depending on their responses. The power structure has been turned on its head. Compared to the strict regimes fashion followed in the 90s, fashion is far more democratic today. There is no one bible, and there is a marked shift in how we consume fashion: the sources of our inspiration are increasingly fragmented and tailored to more specific audiences.
Many users on Instagram follow bloggers who appeal to their personal aesthetic, yet many niche magazines are challenging the status quo of traditional fashion publishing. This diversification is precisely why I believe Vogue to be irrelevant to modern society.